Travel Series: Dunedin to Christchurch, New Zealand
- Maddy Dunn
- Feb 9
- 5 min read
There's nothing quite like waking up in a mystery campspot, expecially when that spot is in a coastal storm. Due to our late night arrival, our camping location when we woke was a surprise. We were parked on the side of the coastal road and woke to waves crashing on the bank next to us and rain and wind blasting the windows. We were happy to be farther north and with a storm, we knew there would be some sort of wave coming through.
The Dunedin area is known for a handful of waves that often provide something. Due to the certain swell and word of mouth, we decided to head to Aramoana first. This beach break is located in a small town near the Otago harbour about an hour North of Dunedin with a population of around 300. As we walked over the dunes up to the break, we were met with wind, rain, and sharky looking water. But, desperate for any wave, Ronan suited up hoping to score something. A half hour later, a faulty leash string and an angry ocean led Ronan to take it as a sign to end this session. We accepted the circumstances and began driving farther North. A kiwi friend of ours had recommended a break called Karitane so we decided to take his word. And thank goodness we did.
When we arrived in Karitane we finally felt like we had struck gold. Nestled off the side of Highway 1, it was an easy town to miss which made it all the better. There was a single General Store in the town which carried absolutely everything you need. In the space of an average living room, they had groceries, mailboxes for the locals, petrol, woodfired pizza, beer & wine, batteries, first aid, and even free bananas that were only a little brown - just the way I like ‘em. There was the Huriawa Pā Walking trail that looped around the peninsula through historic Maori land, and conveniently led to the perfect lookout to watch the surf. Which brings us to Ronan’s favorite part - the score of a swell. Two days of staying in his wetsuit from 9-5, it would be an understatement to say that he was both stoked and stinky.
What made our experience in Karitane so special, however, was the people. Time after time, strangers would approach us with the intention of having a real, genuine conversation. And if not enough time for a conversation, a wave from across the street or a kind hello as we passed on the sidewalk could be expected. We talked to the goldminer wearing a shirt with dollar bills and the word Cash written across his beerbelly about how "money doesn’t buy happiness”. I spoke to the lady with the lab about values and how when raising kids in New Zealand, it is normal to send your kids to school with patched up jeans rather than brand new clothes. We spoke to the 60 year old surfer about the waves and how he has gotten to where he is. Common themes were of course surf, but the sharing values, life stories, goals for the future and so on were consistent and deeply appreciated. Karitane will be a highlight location for the trip and a place I will remember forever.
So the swell ended and it was time to head farther North and to once and for all get this squeak fixed. We made it to Christchurch after a somewhat long and gray drive with one overnight stop parked on the edge of a windy cliff. I had remembered a recommendation my friend Frances had given me for a mechanic in Christchurch and she is one to trust with recs. I was proven more than right after our experience with Andy and Kim at A&J's Automotive.
Frances told us to show up without a booking and so we did. On a (finally) sunny morning, we pulled into a junkyard looking driveway unsure of where the shop actually was. After a call to the shop, a kind sounding woman told us to pull deeper into the driveway. She met us with a smile and Arlo, her dog, whose eyes were asking us to throw his makeshift toy - a powerade bottle. A few stories later, including how Andy (the mechanic) had broken his foot dirtbiking the week before, hence being slow-moving compared to normal, we were finally able to meet the man, the myth, and the legend. A creeping garage door slowly opened. First, his boot (because he sawed off his cast), then his Dickies jorts that extended past his knees, then his belly and greasy black hands, and finally Andy. A Cornish, soot-covered fella with a hand-rolled cigarette stuck to his lower lip. Exactly what we were looking for. In 2 minutes, he had diagnosed our problem that no other mechanic seemed to have a clue on, and a few hours after that, our problem was solved. These legends saved us, and it wouldn’t be the first time. More of those guys in the next travel post…
With Homy in good shape, and a quick goodbye to my sister Lola who let us shower (Ronan's first of the month might I add) at her hotel before she headed to her abroad experience in Sydeny, we booked it to the massive peninsula outside of Christchurch. Tumbledown Bay, Te Oka Bay, Hickory Bay, Le Bons Bay, and Akarora provided a week of beautiful scenery, stunning campsites, and perfect Maddy waves. A couple days of surfing in Hickory had filled my cup and provided me with the satisfaction of progress, a feeling that’s hard to beat!
Akarora is a small French-established town in the middle of the peninsula and was a place that I would not want to miss. I recommend a solid amount of time in this peninsula for any traveller.
After a lovely week in this sublime land, Ronan’s friend Logan was set to land in Christchurch at midnight so we cruised back to the city. Little did we know our week in the peninsula would be the last stress-free days for a while, but that’s all part of the fun. More on that next time. Here's to new places, hidden gems, and adventure!
Cheers,
Maddy
Side Note: Ronan started vlogging our time in NZ. If you’d like to follow along in video form, check out his YouTube @RonanLurkin
February 9, 2026 - Written by Maddy Dunn
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