Travel Series: Kaikōura, New Zealand

Kaikōura is a place that embodies everything I love. The brochure phrase “Where the Mountains, Sea & Stars Combine” was cheesy but true.

Located on the East Coast of the South Island, the town of Kaikōura is between the Pacific Ocean and the Seaward Kaikoura Range. It is famous for its year long sperm whale watching and marine life in general. 

Our first few days in Kaikōura were lovely despite the rain and small waves (perfect for me). In the mornings before the rain started, we would spend them surfing. In the afternoons, we would post up at a cafe and play Monopoly Deal or try local pastries. On the second day, despite low clouds, we attempted Mt. Fyffe Summit (4,872ft of elevation gain). After 3,600ft of elevation gain and not a single view due to misting rain that wouldn’t allow us to see more than 30ft ahead of us, we reached Mt. Fyffe Hut. Here, we decided the squeeze wasn’t worth the juice. We ate lunch in the dry hut and decided to turn back. On a clear day, they say it has the best panoramic views in New Zealand giving a spectacular sight of the pacific ocean and the rugged mountains. Maybe next time.

After a week chasing waves on the West Coast we returned to Kaikōura. This time, it was sunny and the waves were perfect. Mangumanu offered the longest point break I had ever surfed. Even when you got off the wave, you could watch it roll down the point until it broke on the beach. And on top of that, there were only a handful of people out there. Because of repetition, this wave offered great progression. Ronan and I felt the same about this, just on very different levels. After four hours in the ocean, we would take a water and snack break and head right back out. And we did this for three days straight. 

On the second day of our marathon, Ronan was on the beach while I was in the surf. When a man we recognized from the day before approached him, it took no longer than five minutes for Ronan to make the connection that he was my best friend from home’s boyfriend’s dad. When I met Matt later in the surf, I was thrilled as Lyla has told me many stories of how much she likes Brook’s funky dad. Great small world connection.

We camped for the week on the beach just around the corner from Mangumanu at Graveyards (yes, it’s right next to a graveyard). For some reason, no other vans decided to take the short bumpy road down to the beach so we had it all to ourselves. There were snow-covered peaks behind our van with blue glassy water in front. During our time at this camp, we experienced jaw dropping sunsets, a pod of 50 or so dolphins passing through, and the brightest stars I’ve ever seen.  

We left Kaikōura with a desire to get moving and on the road again, and since that decision I have regretted it. Although I know there will be another place in New Zealand that will shock me once again, it was hard to believe that anything could get better. Kaikōura had everything I could ever want in a home, and I’m so glad we were able to make it ours for a week. 

With one week before our ferry to the North Island, Ronan and I decided to get everything dialed in terms of the van so that we could cruise once touching ground up North. That meant more fun fixing the car… I’ll spare you the details of our bland week in Blenheim.

Come back next time for an update on the North Island! Looking forward to the second half of our van life adventure. 

All for now,

Maddy

March 5, 2026 - Written by Maddy Dunn