Travel Series: Southland, New Zealand

To start an official recording of our adventures with Homy, we’ll start in the Southland. This is the Southern most region of New Zealand.

An hour past Riverton, a Southeastern fishing town that is one of New Zealand’s oldest settlements, we arrived at our camp at Monkey Island. Monkey Island is located in Te Waewae Bay, the last bay before you reach the fiordlands – a rugged, rainy, and breathtakingly untouched terrain. We were hopeful for some swell at the point by Monkey Island which was unfortunately not in the cards but the scenery was well worth the stay. Golden beaches backed by cliffs, steep fiordland mountains in the distance, and a tiny island accessible only at low tide was our backyard. It would be dishonest if I didn’t account for the wind that was ripping across the beach, unallowing of any beach walk, but we were happy in our semi-wind protected camp. Toilets were provided and so was water (non-potable) that we used to fill our solar shower. 

View from the top of Monkey Island

The following day we were eager for some sort of wave so we cruised 30 or so minutes down the road to Blue Cliffs - the farthest point on the bay before you reach the fiordlands. Blue Cliffs is the last break noted in Ronan’s New Zealand Surfing Guide and is explained as a “fickle spot which can produce good waves occasionally. Best surfed at 3-5ft. Good for surfers of all levels. Uncrowded”. Unfortunately we were met with sloppy waves, heavy onshore wind, and an uninviting beach covered in driftwood. Slightly defeated, we accepted our luck and headed back to the town of Riverton. 

Homy in Riverton

Our time in Riverton was short but sweet. On a sunny, non-windy day one could enjoy the coves along Rocks highway and on a day when the swell is big enough, a right point break at Riverton Rocks would be a surfer’s dream. While we were there, our windy fate was enjoyed by kite boarders. The town itself is charming – hydrangeas spread across town this time of year and a small strip that Highway 99 goes straight through. The strip includes a few second-hand shops (filled with what you might find in your grandma’s house), an organic goods shop, a grocery store, and a butcher shop just as you exit town over the bridge. 

Aparima Thornbury Camp

After filling our water tank in Riverton, we drove to our camp for the night. The Aparima Thornbury campsite provided us with a peaceful afternoon by the river. We observed multiple fly fishermen pass through as the stream seemed perfect for a sneaky brown or rainbow trout. We enjoyed the sun and still air for the first time in a few days, played backgammon with some brie and crackers and Ronan cooked lamb chops and veggies for dinner. A perfect afternoon.

On our way down south a cringeworthy creaking sound began forming near the upper right wheel. After some self diagnosing, Ronan noticed that our upper right hand ball joint was cracked and needed maintenance. As the sound got worse, we made the decision to get a last minute appointment and overnight shipment of the balljoint to Invercargill - the southern most city of New Zealand. So, the next day we cruised up to the city for an unexpectedly long errand day. After a few hours of Homy in the shop and a successful laundry trip, we were ready to leave the (not-so appealing) city of Invercargill and start heading North toward sun and waves. About 10 minutes down the road from the mechanic shop, the creaking came back and brought a knocking with it. We brought it back to the shop but within the next hour the friendly mechanic did nothing but give us some guesses on our problem. Again, we left defeated but also neutral as car trouble is always expected. Regardless, we were ready to get the hell out of Invercargill. 

Slope Point was our destination for the night. A free camping area an hour and a half away and technically the most southern point of the country. Happy to get to camp, I began cooking dinner and reflecting back on a day of imperfect outcomes. And then of course we ran out of fuel. The sun was setting, our moods were low, and our chicken was marinated and uncooked. At that moment, we made the executive decision to eat the half-cooked potatoes and hit the road North. And with that, our three and a half hour drive consisting of singing along to 2010s hip hop (might I add that Ronan knows more words than I do) was the greatest decision we could’ve made. Our time in the Southland was over. 

It’s funny because as I was journaling on our drive that night I was writing about all of the things that went wrong with our day. All that did was make me realize how nothing had really gone wrong at all. We had some car issues, weren’t able to have the perfect meal, and had spent the day in somewhat of an unappealing city. So what? We were driving across New Zealand with no where to be and no time frame. And I’ve got a damn good copilot! How lucky am I for these to be my problems?! 

So, there’s the beginning of our adventure. Southland, you were rugged and beautiful and stinky and humbling. Off to warmer days and more challenges! 

All for now,

Maddy

February 3, 2026 - Written by Maddy Dunn